Dec 9 DAYS 21 Tenaún, CHILOE

Beth, Nigel and I headed off to Tenaún with the hopes of visiting the Isla Mechuque. The windy, hilly, sometimes dirt roads side along pastures of cows, sheep, the ever changing sky, views of the nearby waters and the ubiquitous dogs who vary in their earnestness to chase the vehicles passing by. Frequent signs of Tsunami evacuation routes are unnecessary reminders of our proximity to the sea.

A stop in the tiny village of San Juan offered us an array of boats in states of abandon and tender care with a view of large boats being constructed from wood with methods that have not changed over the centuries, a woman turning seaweed to dry on the beach and an elderly gentleman talking non-stop and offering, from what I could understand, insight into the migration of birds.

Although some claim there is little to do on Chiloé, the days pass quickly and we found ourselves planning to visit the Isla Mechuque the following day. Nigel headed back to Castro via bus and Beth and I settled into a hospedaje owned and managed by Mirella who prepares home cooked meals of fish, salad, freshly baked breads and home-made condiments and fruit juices.

The home’s kitchen is kept warm with an ongoing fire while the rest of the house varied from cold to cool. Fortunately the ample supply of blankets provided enough warmth for a sound sleep that night.