Day 17 Puerto Montt, according to the guide books, is best suited as a transit point, but a walk just outside the center offered a lilliputian market with a labyrinth of artisans shops and restaurants. I ate a plate of fresh caught fish piled high with salad and potatoes in a tiny eatery while enjoying the local flavor of both diners and cooks alike. A number of the shops had women knitting sweaters, scarfs and slippers from wool; I spoke at length with a cheese vendor curious about the time and cost of a flight from the States while offering me a taste of “queso del campo” a mild cow’s milk cheese and a stronger variety too. There was a jewelry maker who transformed recycled copper and metal pipes into original, beautiful rings and pendants. He introduced me to his friend with a small shop just steps away who, blind since birth, hand crafted exquisite sea worthy ships to scale, complete with sails.

A short walk further along the shore brought me to small covered motor boat used to transport any one of the 200 inhabitants of a tiny island to the main land. My entrancement must have been obvious; the driver invited me on board to share the short passage which gave me a chance to learn a little of this tiny piece of land.

I eventually made it back to the hotel, stopping to chat with a few more locals as I made my way.