OKINAWA AND MORE ISLANDS OF JAPAN

In Okinawa and throughout the islands, there was comfort gazing upon these powerful, ancient trees.

I started writing this post many months ago when the word pandemic was not yet uttered throughout the globe. And the murder of George Floyd, and too many others, had not yet ignited the fight and protests for justice.

The cataclysmic news of these events, the devastating wildfires, and the political arena has consumed me. Focusing on anything else has been nearly impossible and any attempts at writing has seemed frivolous.

It remains difficult. News is still bleak, but there are signs of promise too: a flower on a window sill, a tree standing strong and tall, a field that catches the suns rays and rain too, the sea’s endless motion, the moon’s wondrous phases, and the song of a bird to name a few.

In this spirit I’ve decided to try and resume my writing. I hope my words and images bring you some joy and peace during these difficult times and this finds you and your loved ones well and safe.

Sandra @startsolo

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28 November to 24 December, 2019

In searching online for my next destination, after the Seto Islands, Okinawa kept on coming up. I associated it with war, an American Army base, and little else, but the images of beautiful secluded beaches, a unique culture, and delicious cuisine enticed me to go.

Getting there meant catching a flight from Okayama. It gave me a chance to wander the city and enjoy the autumn colors at their peak.

The 16th c. Okayama Castle

Okinawa:

View of the sugar cane fields from my home in Okinawa where I spent a week. The beach was a short walk away.
Boat tours were a popular tourist activity, but this was already the end of the season and the beaches were often empty.
The tiny island of Ojima offered fresh tempura, a small but lively port, and as elsewhere throughout Japan a wide array of tea and coffee (iced and hot) in vending machines. Ojima was a short walk from my home and readily accessible by bridge.
There’s a walking tour that takes you through the Valley of Gangala, a limestone cave hundreds of thousands years old. Inside visitors can touch a part of it for luck and fertility.
You’ll have to look very hard to see an insect here. It remarkably resembles a twig.
It was a little easier to see up close, but not by much. I think I circled all of it…
The crystal clear sea beckons a closer look.
Squid are hung up to dry.
A farmer tends to his crops a short distance from my home in Okinawa.
Low tide and an endless vista.

I’d rented a car and traveled around Okinawa’s main island. There were some lovely places, but I was seeking somewhere more off the beaten track. I took a flight to Ishigaki Island hoping to find it there.

Okinawa

Ishigaki Island:

Ishigaki, at first glance, was not the undiscovered paradise I’d hoped for. The port town was touristy and the busy streets were lined with fastfood establishments. The small house I’d rented was on a drab street of low-lying commercial buildings crowded together with little charm. However, my bedroom was in the back, off the street, and abutting lush undeveloped land. As I lie in my bed a chorus of frogs started singing. I couldn’t have hoped for a better lullaby.

Touring the island along the back roads, I found the locals’ surfing spot and stayed awhile to watch a small group of men attempt to ride the waves with varying success. Another road took me to a lighthouse where the winds were so strong I struggled to reach it, but then a calm came as if a magical spell had been cast to reward me for my tenacity.

Low tide

There were beautiful beaches and the expansive Banna Park to enjoy some birding and hiking, but the nearby Iriomote Island was more remote and less developed. I planned a stay and took a ferry over.

The glass bottom boat ride I finally took before leaving the island.

Irimote Island:

On the far side of the island is the tiny village of Funauki accessible only by boat. I booked a small home there for five days.

On the way I stopped for a visit to Yubu Island.

Yubu Island, 400 meters from Iriomote Island, is accessible at low tide by water buffalo cart. Once inhabited by farmers it is now a tourist destination with a botanic and butterfly garden.
Butterfly garden on Yubu Island
A chicken came to greet me one morning during my stay in Funauki.
My kitchen, bath tub, and living area was outside at my home in Funauki. It was only impractical during a heavy rainstorm. The bedroom and bathroom were indoors.
The island offered a remote beauty I’d been seeking.
A hike to the top of a waterfall offered a splendid view.
I spent two days with a local guide hiking and kayaking through the wondrous mangroves. He’d studied in Australia and spoke English fluently. Our conversations covered a wide range of topics including the island’s dark past where men seeking jobs in the coal mines found themselves in a form of slavery of which there was little chance of escape, present environmental concerns and conservation, and the local culture.
The massive trees continued to awe me.
Ida Beach, a short walk from my home.
The sea was never far.

Yakushima:

Despite Yakushima’s reputation for raining “366 days a year”, this understandably spectacular, verdant island offered me a few chances to see it under clear skies.

Flight from Ishigaki to Kagoshima en route to Yakushima.
The end of my first day on Yakushima. A long travel day starting in Funuaki and involving cars, a plane, and a ferry. But this view and the others to come made it all worthwhile.
Couldn´t resist a closer shot.
There was plenty of rain.
And fields of flowers too.
Yukushima
A coastal walk
This man had cultivated plants and trees from around the world and was kind enough to give me a private tour of his life’s work.
Nature’s grace, mystery, and beauty
A walk through the woods
A perfect day
An ancient forest.
Yakushima
Yakushima

to be continued…

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