19 December 2018 – 22 January 2019
Going from Egypt with its share of chaos, to Switzerland with an abundance of order felt like stepping out of an “I Love Lucy” episode into “The Stepford Wives.”
Crossing streets in Egypt meant relying on your instincts, and moving quickly and carefully when the coast was clear. In Switzerland people wait for the signal to be green, even when no cars are coming,
I needed some time to adjust. And to appreciate the difference.
A friend had invited me to spend the holidays in her hometown, not far from Bern. I was very touched. Here I could catch my breath, share time with her and her family, and visit a country I had seen little of in the past.
Defining Swiss culture eludes me, but what is apparent is the national passion for skiing and spas.
Despite the winter months, snow in my friend’s hometown was scarce. But this did not stop people from skiing, they simply sought higher ground. Practically everyone in the smaller towns was geared up, carrying helmets and skis, and walking stiffly in their ski boots.
My friend, knowing my passion for swimming, treated me to several visits at a neighboring town’s pool complex with both indoor and outdoor pools. While she was busy with work, I welcomed the chance to swim–indoors, but the thought of going to the outside pool in my bathing suit is not in my DNA. Afterall it was winter. Admittedly, the dozens of people on the other side of the huge glass wall looked relaxed and happy.
On my second visit I got bold and walked through a thick plastic curtain cut in vertical strips, down some steps into the warm water of the outside pool. The design was perfect. Although the outside temperature was cold, I didn’t feel the slightest chill.
As the day eased into night, the clouds became pink, the sky darkened illuminating the stars, and the moon rose above the surrounding jagged mountains. My exposed face felt cool to the touch, but my submerged body was warm as I lay on a curved surface with headrest and jets of water massaged me. I admired the view and became giddy with delight.
My appreciation for Switzerland quickly soared. But cultural distinctions could not be overlooked, like assuming the women’s shower accessed directly to the women’s locker room. I did some very quick maneuvering of my towel when I realized it was unisex.
My friends go to their mountain cottage as often as possible. I had the good fortune to go with them. The simple wooden cabin, with lovely furnishings and decorations offered complete comfort and a wood burning stove to keep us warm. At night, stars filled the sky and the silence of the mountains could make one forget that the rest of the world lay just beyond.
I cherish the boundless warmth and generosity my dear friend and family showed me, and the delightful time spent in their company.
There was also the opportunity to discover other regions.
A few of the many highlights:
Bern: When the clock tower strikes the hour, some figures begin to move and enchant the spectators.
Basel: I felt uneasy seeing magnificent creatures confined in a zoo, albeit looking very well-cared for, but also privileged to be in their proximity.
There are far too many museums in Basel to see them all in a short visit, but the art I did see was a treat.
Montreux: The picturesque city on Lake Geneva
Susch: A tiny town is receiving world attention with a newly opened private museum.
Vals: Home to a otherwordly spa and part of an extraordinary landscape.
The World Heritage transalpine railroad passed through a winter wonderland to Tirano Italy:
It hadn’t taken me long to adjust and appreciate this beautiful country after all.