17 December to 19 December 2018

I felt conflicted about leaving Egypt. I’d been to beautiful and fascinating places, met lovely people, and there were so many areas I didn’t get to, but the intensity of the trip had energized and exhausted me in almost equal measure.

Since the ride from Cairo to Alexandria with Amir and Essam had been so pleasant, I decided to arrange a trip back to Cairo with them. They picked me up from the Metropole Hotel in a driving rain. It felt like a reunion among friends. Once again Amir had water and snacks for me as I got comfortable in the back seat of the car. This time, he and I spoke at length while Essam once again prefered to concentrate solely on driving.

Amir shared his taste in music with me. He was particularly fond of Amr Daib who I found a bit too pop, but was glad to discover some local music nonetheless. With Spotify and all the other internet sources, it is all too easy to travel the world and never change your play list. In the past I listened to the local radio stations–there was no other option unless I carried my cassettes or CDs along–which I rarely do now. Few places even have radios.

With the little time I had left in Egypt, I wanted to return to Giza and the pyramids. I’d found a hotel that boasted a fabulous view of them and had excellent reviews. I booked a room and asked to be taken there.

During the drive I asked Amir about his family. He barely mentioned his father, but clearly adored his mother and three sisters. He said he had lived in Maadi, the upscale neighborhood that I’d stayed in, but when we arrived in Giza, he pointed to a project with tall, cement buildings, his present home. I gathered his family had fallen on hard times.

The Panorama Pyramids Inn was basic, but its claim of a great view of the pyramids was not exaggerated. Their terrace and rooms offered a splendid display.  It was just across the street from the Pyramid Light and Sound show. Guests of the hotel were able to watch the show for free. And the breakfast they served on the terrace was a feast.

Between the hotel and the Light and Sound show was a wide road/parking lot used as a thoroughfare for all the camels and horses that tourists would be encouraged to ride at the pyramids. Men and boys took their charges with reins and ropes in hand guiding the obedient, and sometimes not so obedient animals. On occasion a horse got free. It took considerable coaxing for it to be gathered again.

A short walk away was a street of shops that sold an array of souvenirs. It was an animated poor neighborhood, not without interest, but after a few hours there, I decided to save the free Light and Sound show for the following evening and return to the Khan El Khalili market in Cairo.

I hired a car from Uber to go there, and once again was treated to an action filled ride, as the driver skillfully dodged the usual mix of cars, trucks, pedestrians, horse and donkey carts, motorcycles, and scooters. The first time I’d gone to the market I’d chosen to go with a guide, but now knowing the general lay of the land, I spent my time revisiting the narrow lanes filled with commerce.

I stopped for tea and a light dinner in one of the older establishments with ornate decorations. At one table a small group of Egyptian women, dressed-up for a night out, laughed, chatted, and inhaled deeply from the water pipes. Streams of smoke poured from their mouths as if liberating their spirits, and perhaps compensating for their restricted lives. Two musicians playing traditional tunes provided a festive air as tea, plates of food, desserts, and hot coals for the shisha(water pipes) were continuously served by harried waiters.

The market was crowded with locals and tourists intent on finding the best bargains, while the sellers promised the best quality and best prices. Caveat emptor. One seller assured me his scarves were 100% silk. However, upon closer inspection it was evident they were a polyester blend.

I’d arranged that Nour, the same taxi driver who had picked me up from the airport when I first arrived in Egypt, would on my last day take me to Dashur.

I’d promised her a month ago that I would be in touch when I returned to Cairo. When we saw each other again we hugged and laughed. She had tears in her eyes and told me it was hard to become close to her clients–they always leave. We caught up on her days and where I had been, then drove through the lush back roads of palm trees and planted fields toward Dahur. It was the site of the Bent, Red, White, and Black Pyramids: prototypes for the iconic Giza pyramids.

Nour left me to explore the Bent Pyramid on my own. I understood why while making my way down the challenging descent into the tomb. The passage was extremely steep and narrow and ended in a high-ceiling triangular chamber. Although visiting the interior was fascinating, the stale air did not encourage a lengthy stay. I was happy to retrace my steps and see again the light of day.

Afterwards Nour and I went for a meal. I wanted to have some Kashari. It is the ultimate Egyptian comfort food, made of chick peas, pasta, fried onions, rice and lentils topped with a perfect tomato sauce. I knew of a great place near my hotel, that I’d been to when I first saw the Giza Pyramids, and Nour was finding a dozen reasons not to go. When I offered to go on my own, she gave in. She confessed afterwards that she ate Kashari nearly every day and wanted pizza instead. It wasn’t the first time that our wills were tested in an amicable way. Nour is clever and she has survived in tough circumstances both personally and professionally: she is one of only a few women taxi drivers in all of Egypt.

Fortunately Nour didn’t have to compromise. There was a pizza place right next door. As I happily dug into my meal, and finished it with some of the best rice pudding I’ve ever had, she was quite content too eating her pizza and, as is quite typical in Egypt, adding ketchup to it.

My plan was to return to the hotel and sleep a few hours before Nour would pick me up again to take me to the airport. I had a 2 am flight and didn’t expect to get much sleep on the plane.

Shortly after dusk I was at the hotel and happy to catch the Light and Sound show before taking a nap. As promised, guests could see and hear the show perfectly from their rooms. It was very loud and a bit corny, but any excuse to see the pyramids again was fine by me. By the time it was over, I still had a few hours to sleep–or so I thought. A few minutes later the Light and Sound show began again–this time in French.

I did manage to take a short nap before I had to get ready and leave.

It was fitting that Nour was there to welcome me when I first arrived in Egypt and was now there again to see me off.

I couldn’t have asked for a better farewell.