3 December to 8 December 2018

I recall learning back in grade school about the Nile’s annual flooding, traveling in the “wrong” direction, and giving life to Egypt. It created a powerful image.Traveling on the Nile is almost a given for any tourist, with a wide array of options and I didn’t wish to miss out. The passage from Luxor to Aswan is frequently with large cruise ships which did not entice me. Once again, the Lonely Planet guidebook was a great resource where I found a highly regarded company. It offered six-day cruises, on four different traditionally styled sailing boats, known as Dahabiyas.

The boats ranged considerably in size and budget. Feeling pretty certain that this would be a once-in-a-lifetime experience, I wished to make the best choice–balancing comfort with cost. I called the company and spoke with one of the three owners. He was Mexican and shared the business with French and Egyptian colleagues. After a long chat about my overall travel plans, and budget, he assured me I would not be sacrificing anything booking a cabin on the smallest boat.

On the scheduled day, a driver picked me up promptly at 8 a.m. from my hotel in Luxor. I was soon introducing myself to the four other tourists inside the van: three came from France and one from Columbia. We drove for an hour and arrived at a port where two long, sleek, lovely wooden boats with red and white striped sails, wrapped around their masts, were docked. I would soon discover that none of the people I’d just met would be sharing a boat with me.

My bag was taken to the larger of the two vessels where I was shown to a beautiful, spacious private room which did not resemble the cabin I had booked. I thought there was some mistake. I would learn that during the low season, only two boats, the two nicest, were used and I’d been upgraded to the most luxurious boat in their fleet. I can’t help but feel that my long chat with the owner had something to do with this. In addition, the smaller boat had twelve passengers, including two couples with infants,and mine, had only seven, including me–all adults.

The motorless dahabiya was beautifully crafted and decorated. The long, open deck was divided into carpeted, cushioned, seating areas with low tables.

They were delightful places to spend quiet moments seeing the lush pastures, arid landscapes, locals tending to their days on foot and astride donkeys, waterfowl, day easing to dusk, and starlit nights.

The temperature ranged considerable throughout the day. The heavy wool blankets the crew provided were gratefully wrapped around each of us during the chilly evening hours on deck after dinner.

There was also plenty of time to chat with my companions, read, relax and eat delicious meals between the daily excursions to villages and stunning ancient sites.

And when the wind was not strong enough to fill our sails, a tugboat pulled us along.

The appreciation I have for Egypt comes with the privilege of seeing life as it has been lived for centuries. In the countryside an ancient rhythm reigns, with few exceptions.

I rarely buy any objects these days, but the number of tourist boats along the Nile has dwindled and with it economic opportunities for the Egyptians. I considered purchasing some items to bolster the local economy, even if it meant giving them away immediately as gifts.

One morning we pulled up along the shores of the Nile to a small dock. Groups of small children were already there awaiting our arrival. They were holding hand-woven bowls and place mats in bright colors. Some of the kids looked as young as two or three, the oldest was perhaps eight or nine. Our group embarking that day was very small, just one of the couples and me. A crew member, who was also our guide, led us through a village and on to some sites.

On the way back to the dahabiya, children walked with us, repeatedly soliciting their wares. Our small group was nearing the boat. I decided it was time to buy something and took out my change purse. Suddenly the children closed in on me and I could not move. Each children had their arms held high with their bowls and plates in hand. They were all calling out to get my attention. I managed to give my money to two children I’d noted by my side at the beginning and purchased two bowls. But a frenzy continued and I could not take a step in any direction. The small crowd completely immobilized me. Fortunately it was only a short time before the guide came to extract me from the overzealous youngsters.

I never could have imagined my most harrowing moment in Egypt would be with barely school-aged children.

But this episode was overshadowed by many, far more agreeable, encounters.

The pace of the extraordinary days on the Nile was deliciously slow. Nonetheless, we arrived in Aswan, where I would spend the next four nights.