SIFNOS AND ATHENS, GREECE

19 September to 3 October

I took a flight from Corfu and booked two nights in Athens. Despite all the tempting ancient sites to visit, I had my priorities. I made an appointment with a dentist to have my teeth cleaned. He did a great job.

The apartment I stayed in may have been somewhat noisy, but the view from the terrace was ample compensation.

My trip many years ago to Greece, when I’d seen Athens’ major sights, and had gone to the “must-see” islands, made it only slightly easier to choose my next destination.

Cine Paris in Athens. This outdoor theater with a view of the Acropolis quickly became one of my favorite cinemas ever.

I decided on the island of Sifnos. It was relatively near to Athens, had a reputation of being low-key, had lots of hiking trails, and some great swimming spots.

The hydrofoil left Athens at 4:15pm and arrived on Sifnos at 7pm when the sun was nearly setting.

Once again I hadn’t made any reservations and found the tourist office was closed. Fortunately, steps from the port in Kamares was the main street with cafes and tavernas. I made a few inquiries and an older gentleman offered me a room. I followed him, lugging my bags, up a very long set of stairs. We finally reached “Dorothea’s Rooms” where I was soon greeted by Dorothea herself. She was elderly, stout, and her sparse hair was dyed bright red. She had a warm smile, spoke only a few words in English, and my Greek at best allows me to be polite, but it was enough to convey the price of 30 Euros for a pleasant room, packed with three single beds, and terrace. The room however, was only equipped with an intimidating gas canister– I was actually relieved it was out of fuel– for making Greek coffee. It was great for my arrival, but hoped for my stay a place I could prepare some meals.

I ate that evening at a lively restaurant on the beach and went to sleep with the throbbing beat of the island’s sole disco. I was delighted to learn that it was its last night before closing for the season.

The next morning I happened upon an Italian man bringing back some sweet pastries to his wife for breakfast. He said they were staying in a very nice apartment nearby. One thing led to another and soon I was introduced to Dina, the landlady, and shown a large one-bedroom apartment with full kitchen and a wrap-around terrace also for 30 Euros. I moved in that morning.

There is never a shortage of cats. The challenge is finding that balance between invitation and invasion, particularly for the charming ones.

Dina spoke English beautifully, brought me homemade goodies, fresh eggs, and the latest weather reports each day.

A few days after my arrival, news of a serious storm played havoc with travel plans. The summer temperatures dropped and white caps covered the sea. Boat service was suspended. Residents and tourists were stuck on Sifnos.