AEOLIAN ISLANDS

14 May to 8 June

My decision to visit Stromboli was soley based upon a friend’s notion. I knew nothing of it, except as a title from a film, nor of the other Aeolian Islands. It did not take long to become so entranced that I ventured to visit all seven of the inhabited islands.

The Aeolian Islands:

Stromboli (more photos in previous post) captured my heart with its extraordinary geography and beauty.

Lipari: I chose to rent a house out-of-town with the intention of having a car. However the car rental offered no insurance, and although I was assured “the worst you will get is a few scratches, there is little traffic, and everyone drives slowly”-I saw little evidence of that claim. I opted to rely on the buses and occasional hitch-hiking (the island is small enough to feel secure.) I went on several hikes, lived in an area with only locals, explored the towns and ports, people watched, and used Lipari as a base to visit Vulcano and Panarea.

Ancient vessels from ships passing through the waters of the Aeolian Islands in Lipari Archeological Museum

One of the residents of my town in Lipari

My country home called “Tramonto” on Lipari. I learned that “tramonto” means “sunset.”

Panarea: Only here for the day to circumnavigate the island. It is the “posh” island and smallest at 3.5 sq. kms, but its rocky hills and fierce sun made the hike challenging. Swimming in the sea and eating peach “granita” was a perfect end to my visit.

The swimming cove in Panarea was most welcome after a hike around the island.

Vulcano: Another day trip to hike to the live volcano’s crater. The sulfur smells hit you when you embark on the island.

A family stroll up the volcano on the island of Vulcano.

Filicuidi: Yet another day trip. This time to visit an ancient settlement.

Alicudi: There are no roads, just stone paths, and little water on the island. I recycled my washing and shower water to flush the toilet and water the plants during my six-day stay. (I stood in a large washtub for showering and transferred the water into pails.) It’s a great way to become conscious of ones daily water consumption. Mules are used for transporting goods. Electricity came only fifteen years ago. To get anywhere requires tackling steep inclines, but the tranquillity was incomparable. Of all the islands Stromboli and Alicuidi stole my heart.

Fishing at sunrise with locals Silvio and Walter

A steep road/walkway on Alicuidi. The photo doesn’t do the inclination justice.

Sunset on Alicuidi with Filicuidi in the distance

Unloading my bags before leaving Alicuidi…only two of them were mine.

Salina: The last island I stayed on before returning to Milazzo in Sicily. It is the largest and greenest and Pollara at sunset offered spectacular views.