11 to 15 April

Any time I asked for directions in Naples, a discussion among the locals would ensue. I would be ignored until a consensus was reached as to whose directions were the best. Thinking it might be easier to ask someone standing alone proved to be no different: the man enjoined an acquaintance passing by to confirm his directions. I loved Naples. I felt as if I’d been transported back in time: mom and pop shops were thriving, street life was vibrant, cell phones were less visible, laundry hung to dry from nearly every window. The lack of tourists was refreshing.

Naples seemed more unruly than Rome, but also more genuine.

The contrast between the nineteenth century shopping arcades and narrow ancient streets was striking.

The Capodimonte Museum and the National Archeological Museum collections were outstanding. The latter housed some of the finest treasures from Pompeii.

And Naples has the sea.

I spent the short time I was there wandering through neighborhoods, admiring treasures, thinking about Elena Ferrante, and enjoying a city I had visited many years ago that has seemingly improved with age.