Many years ago, for quite some time, I had a dream to ride my bicycle through France. It was a major step for me and frankly, despite my intense desire, I was scared to head out on my own. I owe a great deal to my mom who mollified my trepidations with unwavering encouragement.

My panniers were packed with all the tools I thought would be needed, not all of which I actually knew how to use, the basic necessities, and placed my bike into a storage carton for my flight to Paris. I had serendipitously made a friend a few months prior who lived in Paris and she welcomed me to stay with her upon my arrival.

My first destination was Chartres,  renown for its Gothic Cathedral;  it was my first day on the road alone. But it didn’t take long to spot a troupe of cyclists in this tiny medieval town. They had begun in London, were on their way to an ancient music festival in La Châtre, about 150 miles south, and they invited me along. One day rolled into another, literally, and for a week or so we slept in fields, buying the local products and picnicking with the splendor of the Loire Valley and countryside around us. We began our days sipping cafe au laits from large bowls in cafes, despite our scruffy appearance, the owners welcomed us and took no offense in our asking to arrange our spread of bread, butter and jam for our petit déjeuner.

The tiny town  of La Châtre, was transformed into an ongoing music festival. People would partake in the impromptu concerts  in cafes , corners and squares of the village. Dancing was the entertainment of the evening and we would each pull out our one, clean presentable attire for the occasion. We learned the traditional steps and watched the locals do them as they had been done for ages.

After the fete, my new found friends and I continued our travels to Brittany, discovering the joys of eating crepes and drinking cidre.

Then we went our separate ways, joining up again the following year to repeat the joys of this magical event.

I rode on. The beauty of France continued to dazzle me and whet my appetite for future travels.

Leaving Rhodes,Greece by a small vessel, I arrived in Kas, Turkey. It was a beautiful, small town where I visited sunken antiquities and marveled again at the crystalline sea. But the inland rests foremost in my memories.

I made my way to the surreal landscapes of Cappadocia and walked along the Ihlara Valley. Most tourists visited just a portion of the Valley but I was able to negotiate a ride to the beginning and a pick-up hours later at the end. The terrain was sublime. The path was well marked and the only people I encountered were locals on foot or donkey. At one point, a woman walking the same way attempted to communicate with a word in German, “milch.”  I was pleased I understood the word for milk and that she was on her way to get some. I hadn’t brought much with me and I was content to buy a few things at the store too. After some time, crossing streams and following an increasingly narrow path we arrived at a large field of goats; she turned toward me, smiled, repeated “milch” and went with a pail in hand to acquire what she had set out to obtain. Noting my silly assumptions, I continued on my way.

The Turkish language was extremely difficult to pick up and it took a good part of my stay to say “Thank you” before I had any hope of being understood, but the words for water, bread and yogurt were fortunately, more manageable. There were a few areas, where I spent at least a week, getting by with pointing and no one to converse with at all. But when I finally found English speaking tourists, I recall thinking their discussions were excessive and mundane.

I took a few night buses to avoid the heat and arrived in one town, very late. With nothing open nearby. I followed a young boy who had approached me at the bus station, through the twisty, dark lanes, promising a place to stay. We finally arrived at a small but welcoming hotel. There was never any sense of discomfort or fear.

My presence in these small towns prompted curiosity and was often asked where I came from. The response was always one of delight but the attention could be tiring. The only incident with a negative aspect was when, because of my fatigue,I attempted to ignore one of these inquiries. The man, who spoke some English, was deeply insulted by my behavior and let me know it with harsh words and an angry tone. His message, if not his means, was appropriate. I had been rude and made a point to address, even if very briefly, any future inquiries. I follow this rule of etiquette today; it has served me well.

While in Turkey, I was often invited into the ubiquitous carpet shops and sometimes accepted the constant offers of tea. Chatting with the sellers, in the coolness of the shade, was a pleasant way to pass the time. I did eventually purchase and carry home two small kilim rugs and carpet.

Making my way by ferry to Istanbul, seeing the Grand Bazaar, Hagia Sophia, Basilica Cistern and the Topkapi Palace was the culmination of a magnificent voyage before heading home.

Thank you for taking the time to read my post! Welcome to the tales of a woman solo traveler and thoughts to make today the start of something new. I hope you find information and inspiration in the text and images and join me in my quest for growth, wonderment and self-improvement

Many years ago, I flew into Athens and six weeks later flew out of Istanbul, traveling by land and sea along the way. The trip began on an awkward note. I was given the name of a friend’s friend who lived in Athens. My flight from NY was scheduled to arrive around 3am and somehow I failed to make any specific arrangements with my host beforehand. I waited in the airport, until a “reasonable” 7am before calling him, but my courtesy was ill-conceived. Unbeknownst to me, he had been out clubbing until 5, finally got to sleep at 6, and was then abruptly awakened by my call and informed of my imminent visit. He was surprisingly gracious, despite my bumble.

After some wonderful days touring Athens(besides the antiquities, the proliferation of homeless cats made a particular impression on me)and Delphi, I made my way to the islands. The public ferries I traveled on were large, not luxurious but a great means of travel. Passing time on deck was a simple and divine pleasure. There, I reveled in the perfect balance between the warmth of the sun and coolness of the breeze. The sea extended into the horizon, broken only by the islands sprouting from its waters. Sleeping in the bunks was, as I recall, comfortable and the showers had terrific water pressure (something I remember after all these years).

I opted to visit Mykonos (I’m probably the only person who did not partake in the nightlife), Delos (tiny but fascinating), Naxos( quiet and lovely), Paros(ditto), Santorini (breathtaking), Crete (hiking the Samaria Gorge and Knossos were two of the many highlights) and Rhodes (very touristy on the main strip but two blocks over I found local ambiance and tranquility). Each destination displayed the ancient past inextricably entwined with the present.

At most ports I was met with locals, touting their inexpensive and often lovely accommodations. After I settled in I would rent a scooter, discover unoccupied roads and beaches and spend the good part of a glorious day by the shore.(I should note that prior to this trip, I frowned upon the idea of passing a day on the beach “doing nothing” . I very quickly corrected the error of my ways and luxuriated by the sea in the absence of any activity, besides taking in the beauty around me.)

There are too many days to summarize here, but I recall exquisite sea, sky, iconic blue and white, fine cuisine, and the pleasure of tasting yogurt and honey together for the first time; it was divine.

Some people had warned me about traveling alone, as a woman, with these “hot-blooded Mediterranean men”, but I never had an issue. The people I encountered were helpful and friendly and my past experience waitressing at Greek diners gave me a head start on the basic pleasantries.

After three weeks, I was sorry to go, but Turkey still lie ahead.

Thank you for taking the time to read my post! Welcome to the tales of a woman solo traveler and thoughts to make today the start of something new. I hope you find information and inspiration in the text and images and join me in my quest for growth, wonderment and self-improvement