DAY 10  The stars that night filled the sky. I slept well.
When I came in the next morning, I was offered some biscuits and coffee for breakfast and told to be ready for my ride at 9am. Then I watched as effectively used lassos encouraged a few reluctant horses to leave their corral.
About six horses were already tacked up and I disappointingly envisioned being joined by tourists, but soon two baqueanos and I set off on our own. They had asked me if I knew how to ride and I said yes.
We began cantering across the land. I anticipated the typical, scenic ride to a lake in the distance. But we started moving along at a good pace over rough ground and our direction changed. There were steep embankments to manage, streams that the horses either jumped over or ran through and terrain that included high brush on the plain. The exact paths we took were now our own and the baqueanos only turned once or twice to see if I was still there. About an hour later we arrived at another horse ranch. They dismounted, unsaddled their horses and led them to a corral. I was offered some water which I was happy to have. I was already warm and thirsty from the ride. They disappeared a short while, but soon they were on new mounts. I returned to my horse and we were on our way. But this time they had brought along fifteen horses, unbridled and free. I, out of habit, thought it best to follow behind as one does with a guide, but was told to get on the other side of this small herd. Watching numerous westerns in the past, it didn’t take long to realize that I was being asked to assist them in a round-up; to bring these horses home. Within minutes I was chasing the strays, then galloping alongside them until they were amongst the herd. This continued on until we arrived back at the ranch. The job was done. The only word directed my way was “bueno,” until I was invited to lunch. Fed, exhausted and exhilarated, I packed my things, said goodbye and headed to camp at a lake not far away. I drove away knowing that I had just experienced the most memorable ride of my life and an extraordinary two days with los baqueanos.

DAY 9
I was hoping to do some riding in Torres del Paine. My new friend Victor suggested los baqueanos (the cowboys) who lived and worked about a two hour drive away. He had given me a hefty care package of food for his buddies, so when I showed up at the farm with no one there I felt obligated to wait for their return. Fortunately there was an exquisite resort nearby, with an extremely kind manager who was sympathetic to my predicament; it is there I passed the time. About 4 hours later, los baqueanos returned. They had just spent a long day tagging untold numbers of sheep, and entertaining a stranger did not seem to be foremost in their desires. But they welcomed me into their home and asked me in Spanish, “Where are you from?” The fact that a woman traveling alone from New York City happened upon their doorstep, as a friend of a friend, elicited no further questions. The home contained a wood burning stove to keep them warm, cook the meals and keep a kettle of water hot for their maté. Their attire spoke of a long tradition: beret, boots, baggy pants, neck scarf and three belts. One belt, closest to the body, was worn for the usual reasons, the second, a long band of woven cloth was wrapped around the waist several times and held a knife, the outermost belt was for ornamentation, wide and handcrafted with leather and silver. Every inch of them exuded machismo. Yet they were completely enthralled by a sappy romantic soap opera on TV. We sat in the living room/kitchen eating a simple, but tasty-for me, thanksgiving dinner- meal of meat and pasta. Their horses, dogs, and cat were not far from the door, and neither were the hawks, condors, rheas, rabbits, sheep and guanacos.
I left shortly after dinner to set up my tent outback and left them sipping their tea. Riding would have to wait until the following day. The stars filled the sky. I slept well.

DAY 7-8 Torres del Paine

Parque Nacional Torres del Paine lies about 4.5 hours north of Punta Arenas. Sharp peaks jut above jagged ground and striking blue lakes. Guanacos which to my untrained eye look just like llamas graze lazily and barely take notice as hikers and cars go by. This is clearly their land. The young ones scamper about the plains and win my heart immediately.

I have decided at the last minute to rent a car which is ultimately a relatively easy arrangement. The prices seemed prohibitive at first but using a site called rentalcars.com, I found a great deal. Once I arranged the pick up of my 6 speed, Toyota, a welcome upgrade, in Punta Natales I set out for the park. The level paved roads soon became gravel and narrowed considerably but fortunately adapting to the experience came easily.

The Park contains lakes, rivers, waterfalls, abundant wildlife, and a range of snow capped mountains but the jewels of the park are the three granite peaks that stand above all:Torres del Paine.

My first stop-primarily for lunch-was at one of several hotels in the park where rooms go for about $350/night and up. I didn’t love the ambiance and was pleased to go on my way. I stopped at one of the park stations and asked where I might go to spend the night. They recommended a ranger station hosted by Victor who has lived in the area almost 30 years. His passion is cooking and if you are fortunate enough to catch him there, as I was, you are in for quite the treat.

The station over looks the Laguna Azul which is bluer than blue and offers the reflection of the iconic peaks on a calm day but the incessant winds leave only ripples.

My sleeping bag was very much appreciated after a long day.

DAY 6
Besides the general difference of attire and appearance, in this small city of Punta Arenas, is the walk that truly distinguishes the locals from those just passing through. The winds that come off the Magellan Strait is enough to blow the unaccustomed sideways, yet the residents seem undaunted.

Penguins seem equally equipped to deal with the magnificent, austere and turbulent landscape in which they dwell. To see them in the wild, albeit in close proximity to the camera wielding visitors, delights me.

The Magellan Strait is no longer a name I simply recall reading in the history books. I can now associate it with immense sky, temperamental waters, mountains far but still in view and these wonderful creatures who seem quite content in this challenging but magnificent land.

The next days wifi may not be available, but I will be in touch when I can. So just in case I send the warmest, best wishes and love to my family and friends on Thanksgiving and to all who are celebrating.

HAPPY THANKSGIVING!

Day 5                                                                                      It is nearly 10pm; the sun is beginning to set.

There seems to be no agreement on the derivation of Chile’s name, but one theory is that it comes from the indigenous people and means, “the ends of the earth.” Flying into Punta Arenas this afternoon and seeing acres and acres of flat lands heading into the sea, the name is apt.

Sunday is a quiet day and most of the storefronts are closed, but cafes and restaurants are busy with travelers and locals alike. The welcoming warmth of Santiago is replaced with cool winds. warm clothes, although its spring, are worn by all. The sun is bright but intermittent showers lightly fall.

There is the sense, still, of an undiscovered land just miles away.

Thank you for taking the time to read my post! Welcome to the tales of a woman solo traveler and thoughts to make today the start of something new. I hope you find information and inspiration in the text and images and join me in my quest for growth, wonderment and self-awareness.
Here’s to new discoveries near and far!

Enjoy the days.

Day 4
The Museo Chileno de Arte Precolombiano holds treasures within as evidence of our desire or need to ornament and decorate objects since the beginning of civilization. This fascinates me. Utilitarian objects need not be beautiful, yet they are painted, carved, sculpted, and designed with an aesthetic eye. We are innately entranced by beauty in all its forms and continue to create our individual and collective ideals.

The days are warm and extending in length. The heat of the day seems incongruous with a well padded Santa Claus standing near a main square, soliciting the wishes of the children as the parents lean in to hear their desires.

El Mercado Central where the fish vendors and restaurants sell and serve the delicacies of the sea is vibrant and animated with the exchange of words and fare.

Saying good bye to my departing roommates contained a warmth far surpassing the time we actually shared.

Visiting the Museo de la Memoria is a sobering but necessary commemoration of the suffering under the Pinochet regime. And an eerie reminder that September 11 is a date that resonates in Chile’s history as well.

But the celebration of spring with dance and music, just a few blocks away, shows the resilience of the people and change present in Chile today.

Thank you for taking the time to read my post! Welcome to the tales of a woman solo traveler and thoughts to make today the start of something new. I hope you find information and inspiration in the text and images and join me in my quest for growth, wonderment and self-awareness.
Here’s to new discoveries near and far!

Enjoy the days.

 

Day 3
Santiago is a city that takes its cultural expression to heart. The museums and galleries are numerous, filled with ancient and modern works sometimes in the same room. Graffiti, meticulously painted, is evident on many a wall that is hard to imagine having once been bare. It takes little effort to find artistic endeavors with each glance. I have spent today wandering through various venues of art, music, dance and poetry both indoors and on the street.

The generous spirit of the residents who shared their time, showed me the way, displayed their kindness with a smile and even presented me with flowers at the end of the day added another dimension of beauty to the day.

Thank you for taking the time to read my post! Welcome to the tales of a woman solo traveler and thoughts to make today the start of something new. I hope you find information and inspiration in the text and images and join me in my quest for growth, wonderment and self-awareness.
Here’s to new discoveries near and far!

Enjoy the days.

Days1-2
Leaving from LaGuardia Airport was like entering the future we imagined watching Blade Runner or the Jetsons. Inside the terminal all the tables were equipped with iPads and there was little evidence of conversation where the tablets outnumbered the attendees. But it seems to be a popular decision; few people were seen in front of dark screens. The visual stimulation of all these screens bouncing from one image to another creates a harsh and jarring environment. Are my sentiments shared by my fellow travelers? It’s hard to say and I haven’t asked. I’m too busy writing on my iPad.

We have taken off and although it is just past 6pm the sky is dark. As we gain altitude for a stop over in Atlanta the lights below look like golden beads glittering haphazardly, arranged in ripples and rows.

Arriving in Santiago after 9 plus hours of flight, I took a bus then metro to the hostel and my attempts at Spanish elicited the kindness and guidance of the locals. A wrong train was forgiven and free re-entry allowed; all directions were offered with a smile.

Settling in is easy. My roommates are from Brazil and Chile. All are warm and welcoming but I dash off to see the PreColombian Art Museum which is modern and houses a  beautiful collection. But my lack of sleep on the plane forces me to plan a return visit so that I can  fully appreciate the artifacts.

The highlight of the evening was heading over to GAM a modern arts center which houses a bookstore, cafe, restaurant and theatre amongst a recording studio and  other venues. I was graciously invited by a ticket seller to attend a performance for free. Ironically, the piece transported us via a flight to a new land and taking part in the song, dance and music of the locals; it was quite a treat. 

Thank you for taking the time to read my post! Welcome to the tales of a woman solo traveler and thoughts to make today the start of something new. I hope you find information and inspiration in the text and images and join me in my quest for growth, wonderment and self-awareness.
Here’s to new discoveries near and far!

Enjoy the days.

Later today I fly to Santiago, Chile. I look forward to discovering new lands and taking pleasure in life under a different sky, but I am particularly grateful for my family and friends who understand me and know I keep them near to my heart in all I do and see.

Thank you for taking the time to read my post! Welcome to the tales of a woman solo traveler and thoughts to make today the start of something new. I hope you find information and inspiration in the text and images and join me in my quest for growth, wonderment and self-awareness.
Here’s to new discoveries near and far!

Enjoy the days.