The Copper Canyon is actually a series of canyons in Mexico that can be visited by train. The tracks extend from Chihuahua to Los Mochis, and it takes about fifteen hours to complete the journey from end to end. A number of years ago I traveled this rail and took several weeks exploring the area.
I visited the small towns and learned of their history. Fortunes had been lost and a few gained in pursuit of precious ore.
Since I had been raised on films in which all the cowboys talked and looked more or less like John Wayne, I wasn’t expecting to see men, south of the border, wearing cowboy hats, boots and spurs. But this was horse country and in Chihuahua I quickly adjusted to the local ways.
One of the many highlights, was my stay at the Sierra Lodge in Cusarare. The lodge lacked electricity, but there was no lack of comfort. Kerosene lamps were adequate, a wood burning stove kept the room warm at night and the meals were delicious.
There were many marked footpaths in the surrounding area and a walk to the nearby falls and town could easily be followed. But hiking the mountains without a guide was ill-advised. I had the good fortune to hire a local man from the Tarahumara tribe, an indigenous people who are renowned for their ability to run great distances. I was told he knew the paths as well as anyone around. We set out toward a distant river with continuous ascents for most of the day. There were exquisite views with every moment and our language barrier did not restrict us from communicating along the way. After many hours of difficult terrain, I was relieved to know that after lunch, our return would be upon a well worn path, only a few kilometers away. But we discovered that an unexpected flood made this option impossible and had to return on the same trail we came.
We set off again the following morning, to see a painted cave, but this time I made sure the round trip was only a fraction of the previous day’s.
